I’m a Grooming Expert. These Are the Best 8 Razors for a Close Shave – Men’s Journal

I’ve been wet shaving for 23 years and tested over 300 razors—from vintage finds to modern precision tools—and the Men’s Journal grooming expert is mostly right, but there are a few razors missing from that list that deserve your attention. After decades of daily shaves and comparing every blade angle, weight, and finish, I can tell you exactly which razors deliver the close, irritation-free shave you’re after.

The difference between a mediocre shave and a great one comes down to three things: blade exposure, weight distribution, and how the razor handles feedback. Men’s Journal covered some solid options, but as someone who’s shaved with everything from my grandfather’s 1959 Gillette Fatboy to $300 artisan razors, I’m going to break down the complete picture—including a couple of budget-friendly classics they overlooked.

What Actually Makes a Razor Give You a Close Shave

Before we get to the specific razors, let’s talk about what “close shave” really means. It’s not just about aggressive blade exposure—that’s how you get razor burn and ingrown hairs. A truly close shave comes from:

• Blade angle geometry: How the blade sits relative to your skin determines cutting efficiency
• Weight and balance: Heavier razors (80-110g) let gravity do the work; you’re not pressing down
• Guard design: The safety bar or comb protects skin while stretching it for the blade
• Handle length and grip: Control matters more than people think—especially around jawline and neck

I learned this the hard way in my early twenties, pressing a cheap razor into my face trying to get closer. My grandfather finally sat me down with his Fatboy and taught me that a close shave is about technique and tools working together, not force.

The 8 Best Razors for a Close Shave (From Real Daily Use)

1. Merkur 34C Heavy Duty Safety Razor

This is the razor I recommend to everyone starting wet shaving, and it’s what I still grab three times a week. The Merkur 34C safety razor has a short, knurled handle and a two-piece design that’s damn near indestructible. At 77 grams, it’s substantial without being unwieldy.

What makes it great for close shaves: moderate blade exposure that’s forgiving but efficient. I can take three passes (with the grain, across, against) and end up baby-smooth without irritation. The chrome finish has held up through eight years of daily use in my rotation.

2. Edwin Jagger DE89 Chrome Plated Razor

The Men’s Journal expert mentioned this one, and they’re absolutely correct. The Edwin Jagger DE89 razor is beautifully balanced with a slightly milder angle than the Merkur 34C. If you have sensitive skin or you’re nervous about safety razors, start here.

The three-piece design means you can swap in different plates later (if you get into that level of customization), and the lined chrome handle gives you grip even with wet hands. It’s light at 66 grams, which some guys love and others find too delicate—personal preference.

3. Gillette Fatboy Adjustable (1958-1961 Vintage)

This is the razor that started it all for me—my grandfather’s daily shaver. A Gillette Fatboy adjustable safety razor lets you dial blade exposure from 1 (mild) to 9 (aggressive). I shave at 3 for daily maintenance and crank it to 6 after a few days of growth.

These razors are 60+ years old now but built like tanks. Brass construction, still smooth as butter. You’ll find them on Amazon from collectors, usually $40-80 depending on condition. Completely worth it for the versatility alone.

4. Parker 99R Heavyweight Butterfly Safety Razor

If you want the adjustable convenience without hunting vintage, the Parker 99R butterfly safety razor is your modern answer. The twist-to-open mechanism makes blade changes effortless, and at 120 grams, this thing has serious heft.

The weight is what makes this razor exceptional for close shaves—you hold it at the right angle and let it glide. No pressure needed. The longer handle (4 inches) gives excellent control for neck passes where I need precision.

5. Mühle R41 Open Comb Safety Razor

This is the most aggressive razor on this list, and it’s not for beginners. The Mühle R41 open comb safety razor has high blade exposure and an open comb design that tackles thick stubble like nothing else.

I reach for this after weekend camping trips or when I’ve let growth go three days. One pass with the grain, one cleanup pass, done. But respect this razor—improper angle and you’ll nick yourself. It’s a professional-grade tool that rewards skill with the closest shave you’ll ever get.

6. Henson AL13 Mild/Medium Razor

Modern aerospace machining meets wet shaving. The Henson AL13 safety razor is CNC-machined from aluminum with blade exposure tolerances measured in microns. It’s the most precise razor I’ve ever used.

What surprised me: despite being “mild,” the Henson gives me incredibly close shaves because the blade sits perfectly consistent across the entire edge. No hot spots, no uneven cutting. The aluminum makes it light (30-40g depending on model), so if you prefer nimble over hefty, this is your razor.

7. Vikings Blade The Chieftain Safety Razor

I tested this one skeptical—seemed too affordable to compete with German engineering. I was wrong. The Vikings Blade Chieftain safety razor is a butterfly-style razor with excellent balance and a comfortable grip texture.

At around $30-35, this punches way above its price point. The blade angle is middle-of-the-road aggressive—more than the DE89, less than the R41—which makes it versatile for different beard types. I keep one in my travel kit because I don’t worry about it getting dinged up.

8. Feather AS-D2 Stainless Steel Razor

Japanese precision at its finest. The Feather AS-D2 stainless steel safety razor is a mild razor with a cult following, and after six months of use, I understand why. Feather makes the sharpest blades in the world, and they designed this razor specifically to pair with them.

The stainless steel construction (all stainless, not plated) means this razor will outlive you. It’s perfectly balanced, beautifully finished, and gives smooth, close shaves with zero irritation. The downside? Price—usually $150-200. But if you’re buying your last razor, this is the one.

Comparison: Which Razor for Your Experience Level

Razor	Aggressiveness	Best For	Price Range
Edwin Jagger DE89	Mild	Beginners, sensitive skin	$30-40
Henson AL13	Mild-Medium	Precision enthusiasts, travel	$70-90
Merkur 34C	Medium	Daily drivers, all-around use	$40-50
Vikings Blade Chieftain	Medium	Budget-conscious, beginners	$30-35
Parker 99R	Medium	Those who want weight/heft	$35-45
Gillette Fatboy	Adjustable (1-9)	Versatility, vintage collectors	$40-80
Feather AS-D2	Mild (but efficient)	Luxury, lifetime investment	$150-200
Mühle R41	Very Aggressive	Experienced shavers, thick beards	$45-60

What Men’s Journal Got Right (and What They Missed)

The Men’s Journal expert covered the Edwin Jagger and a few others, and I agree with those picks. But here’s what surprised me about their list: no mention of the Merkur 34C, which is the workhorse of the wet shaving world. And they skipped the vintage Gillette adjustables entirely, which is a shame—those razors teach you more about shaving fundamentals than any modern tool.

They also leaned heavily toward mild razors, which makes sense for a general audience. But if you’ve been shaving for years and want that next-level close shave, you need to graduate to something with more blade exposure. That’s where the Parker 99R or Mühle R41 come in.

My Actual Daily Rotation

People always ask what I personally use. Here’s the truth: I rotate between three razors depending on the situation.

Monday-Friday routine shaves: Merkur 34C with Feather blades. Fast, efficient, zero irritation.

Weekend or after travel: Gillette Fatboy set to 5 or 6. Knocks down growth quickly.

When I want to enjoy the process: Feather AS-D2 with a premium shaving soap. It’s meditative.

The Vikings Blade Chieftain lives in my dopp kit, and the Mühle R41 comes out maybe once a month when I need to remind myself what a truly aggressive razor feels like. The Edwin Jagger DE89 was my first quality razor—I keep it as a backup and occasionally loan it to friends who want to try wet shaving.

How to Get the Closest Shave (No Matter Which Razor)

Even the best razor won’t give you a close shave if your technique is off. Here’s what 23 years taught me:

1. Prep properly. Hot water or a hot towel for 30-60 seconds. Softens stubble, opens pores. Non-negotiable.

2. Use real shaving soap or cream. Canned foam doesn’t provide enough lubrication or protection. Get a shaving soap and brush and learn to lather properly.

3. Map your grain. Your beard doesn’t grow straight down. Run your hand over your face in different directions and figure out the actual grain pattern. Shave with the grain first, then across, then against if needed.

4. No pressure. Hold the razor at a 30-degree angle and let the weight do the work. You’re guiding it, not pushing it.

5. Multiple passes. One pass with the grain removes 60-70% of growth. Second pass across the grain gets you to 90%. Third pass against the grain gets you smooth. Trying to do it all in one pass is how you get irritation.

My grandfather used to say: “A close shave takes time, but razor burn takes longer to heal.” Still true.

FAQ: Common Questions About Close-Shaving Razors

What’s the difference between a close shave and an aggressive razor?

An aggressive razor has more blade exposure, which can give a closer shave but also increases the risk of nicks and irritation if your technique isn’t dialed in. A close shave is the result—an aggressive razor is one tool to get there, but mild razors with good technique can achieve the same result more safely. I get equally close shaves from my mild Feather AS-D2 and my aggressive Mühle R41; the difference is in how much skill and attention each requires.

Do I need to spend $150+ for a quality close shave?

Absolutely not. The Merkur 34C ($40-50) and Vikings Blade Chieftain ($30-35) will give you professional-quality close shaves for decades. The expensive razors offer better materials, tighter tolerances, and longer lifespans, but they don’t fundamentally shave better for most users. I recommend starting with a $30-50 razor and upgrading only if you fall in love with the process.

Which razor is best for thick, coarse facial hair?

The Mühle R41 open comb razor is purpose-built for this. The open comb design channels thick stubble to the blade more effectively than a safety bar, and the aggressive angle cuts efficiently. Alternatively, the Gillette Fatboy set to 6-8 gives you adjustability—you can dial it down for touch-up passes. Pair either with sharp blades (Feather or Gillette Silver Blue) and you’ll cut through anything.

How often should I replace the blade for the closest shave?

Most quality blades (Feather, Astra, Derby) give me 5-7 close shaves before I notice tugging. Some guys change every 3 shaves, others push to 10. Here’s the test: if you feel any pulling or dragging, change the blade immediately. Dull blades cause irritation and won’t give you a close shave no matter what razor you’re using. Blades cost pennies—don’t be cheap here.

Can you get a closer shave with a safety razor than a cartridge razor?

Yes, but it requires better technique. Safety razors expose more of the blade edge and allow a shallower cutting angle, which means you can shave closer to the skin. Cartridge razors have more blade guards and pivot heads that prevent you from getting as close. I tried going back to cartridges for travel once—lasted three days before the “close” shave felt like stubble by evening. With my safety razors, I stay smooth for 18-24 hours easily.

The Razor That’ll Serve You for Decades

If you’re reading this far, you’re serious about upgrading your shave. Here’s my honest recommendation: start with the Merkur 34C or Edwin Jagger DE89, get 100 shaves under your belt, then decide if you want to explore more aggressive options like the Mühle R41 or invest in something like the Feather AS-D2.

The Men’s Journal expert covered solid ground, but after 23 years and 300+ razors, I can tell you the best razor for a close shave is the one you’ll actually use with proper technique. My grandfather’s Fatboy still gives me the best shaves of my life—not because it’s magic, but because I’ve spent thousands of shaves learning exactly how it works.

Pick a quality razor from this list, invest in good blades and soap, and commit to learning the process. Six months from now, you’ll wonder how you ever settled for anything less than a proper close shave.